On assignment to cover this thing called life, writing with my former student: In Dubrovnik

The Assignment: I am on assignment to cover this thing called life, writing with Ariel Rose, a former student of mine. She is a bomb writer, damn that girl and her words—I hope she publishes one day. This all started when she posted on FB the other day…if only I could get myself to start writing again…to which I commented, it’s due on Friday, 500 words, then added, actually, let’s do it together.

In Croatia, along the walls of Dubrovnik, I sat in the afternoon shade on a stone bench that lined the walkway and ate an avocado under the watchful eye of an old woman who spoke no English. I ate slowly, taking in her stone yard across from the bench, her clean laundry hanging to dry on the line, listening to her conversation with an old man, presumably her husband. It was a wife to husband conversation, spoken out as much by gesture as word.

It seems he was to go fetch something. He returned later, with a small dog. The love between the dog and that old man was palpable, familiar. I, too, have a small black dog. The dog swallowed a treat and began to choke. I didn’t know how to help, but was ready to try anything for that old man. The blockage worked its way out, thank god. The man went on and the woman sat down next to me.

We spoke in the way of language that knows no words, she with no English and me with not a word of her language to share. She wanted my avocado pit to plant, her gestures showing me that it would grow and she would eat the next avocado. I gave it to her and she nodded her thanks.

Later that evening I sat on the bench again, before bed, under the stars. Her laundry was down. The walkway was quiet. My time with the old woman was the star of my day amongst the tourists and their bustle, their striding past her yard on the way to see where the character from Game of Thrones once stayed. I’m glad the old man’s dog lived. I’m glad I was able to share something of worth with the matron of the place.

Compassion or shared humanity? Either way, I did more than take. It is really such a shallow thing to travel and only engage with greed.